Inside African Voodoo: History, Rituals, and Healing at Lomé’s Fetish Market

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For someone wandering through the bustling streets of Lomé, the capital of Togo in West Africa, the *Marché des Féticheurs* (the Akodésséwa fetish market) might seem unusual, or perhaps even unsettling. The stalls are filled with animal skulls, dried hides, and wood carvings. This is not merely a destination for curious tourists or those seeking "dark tourism." The market serves as a vibrant hub for culture, spirituality, and healing for many people in the region.

Observing those who practice these traditions offers a deeper insight into their reality. It is not primarily about the objects themselves, but rather about beliefs, customs, and a way of life that connects people to both the spiritual and natural worlds. The items found at the market are not mere decorations; they are integral to a medical practice and a system passed down through generations.

The Scope of Voodoo: Beliefs, Mindset, and Healing

In film and on television, Voodoo is often portrayed as a practice involving the sticking of pins into dolls to cause harm to others. Practitioners of Voodoo in Lomé are quick to point out that this is not true Voodoo. Their practice is rooted in a belief system with origins in West Africa—specifically in areas such as Togo and Benin.

They view the world as being imbued with life force and soul. Everything—trees, rivers, animals, and humans—possesses a spirit. They do not worship distant deities; instead, they honor the supreme creator and their ancestors, who remain present and watch over them. The market serves a dual function: it is both a physical location and a pharmacy. Before Western-style hospitals arrived in Africa, people turned to voodoo priests when they needed healing. Today, many people visit a doctor when they fall ill; however, if an ailment appears to be more than merely physical—for instance, linked to energies or spirits—they seek help from traditional healers.

The medical arsenal: Components found at the fetish market

The items sold—lion skulls, baboon bones, crocodile skins, and snakeskins—are not merely decorative. They serve as ingredients in various treatments. The market functions as a pharmacy—a space that bridges the physical and the spiritual. **Preservation:**

When an animal dies in the wild, hunters collect it. The animal is not killed for commercial purposes; it is only retrieved if it has died a natural death. The practitioner then opens the carcass, removes specific organs, and fills it with leaves and sacred powders. It is subsequently dried with great care. The purpose of this process is to preserve the animal’s inherent strength.

2. **Preparation methods:**

**Powders and elixirs:**

Teeth, roots, herbs, and animal parts are crushed into powders. These can be mixed with water to create potions, or combined with honey, and consumed as a remedy to improve memory or strengthen the voice. Some are incorporated into soaps used for bathing, which cleanse both body and soul.

**Scarification (making incisions in the skin):**

To provide protection against snakebites, a healer may make incisions in the skin and apply powdered snake fang into the wound. It is believed that this grants the individual strength and a sense of security.

**Specialized amulets:** 

These are objects that function as talismans, known as *fétiches*. They are crafted for very specific purposes. One type might protect you while traveling, while another could help strengthen your memory. Some are designed to detect poison—if someone attempts to harm you with poison, the amulet may react.

**The practitioner’s role and the preservation of knowledge**

Becoming a Voodoo priest is not a choice one makes on one’s own. It is not like attending school; it is a calling. Certain children are selected through divination—there are signs indicating that they are destined to serve the community in this capacity.

These children go into the forest to live and learn. They remain there for many years—anywhere from 10 to 25 years. During this time, they learn about plants, how to communicate with spirits, how to interpret the signs of nature, and how to heal. They do not use books. Knowledge is acquired through action, by listening, and by living in close proximity to the forest.

This tradition is passed down through storytelling and lived experience. The knowledge evolves over time. For instance, a healer today might prepare an elixir for someone traveling to a foreign land, or for a couple who wish to remain together forever—or perhaps for someone who has exhausted all other options yet still feels ill. The fetish market in Lomé is, fundamentally, more than just a place to shop. It is an integral part of a worldview in which the physical and spiritual realms are united. Here, nature, ancestors, and healing converge. It is a place where customs continue to shape people’s lives.